Drill a few small holes through this line to carry through your vertical nailing line to the inside. Your helper is done! - On the Back of the carcass, mark 42.75" from the right edge and draw a vertical nailing line on the back. Shoot nails from underneath into the bottom to secure the Back and piece "E" to the bottom. Shoot 3" framer nails to secure the right piece "E" to the "Back" piece. Put Glue on the bottom of the right side piece "E" and get your helper to hold it in place against the back piece. Put Glue on the right side of the "Back" where piece "E" will connect to it. Put Glue on the bottom of the back piece "Back" and get your helper to hold it in place. You will be shooting nails up into this area. Set it up so the back and right side are hanging over the edge of the work table. I use an old door on adjustable saw horses. Assembly: - Lay the Bottom piece "G" on a flat work surface. It is 26" wide which should fit through any doors BUT it is 87" long so it may be tough to get around corners. Before you start assembling the carcass, make sure that you will have enough room and a plan to get it to it's final location. You'll need a helper for this first assembly step. The downside is that you have to setup the table saw each time. It gives you a better ability to check for errors. You may find it useful to cut parts from the larger plywood sheets as the project progresses. Please double check ALL the measurements and dry fit your parts before drilling, nailing or gluing. Lay your marked plywood on the floor and slowly cut your lines with a skill saw with a plywood blade installed. The second method is to lay some 2 x 6 pieces on a smooth floor. Mark your lines on the wood and pass the large sheet of plywood through the table saw blade with you pushing and your helper catching. Set up your table saw outside with the fence and guards removed. The first is somewhat dangerous and you need a helper. If you have access to a panel saw with a good plywood blade, you are golden. Cutting large sheets of plywood can be tricky. Line each one up and sight it with your eye. When choosing your plywood sheets, be sure that they are not warped or bent.
The documents are in Word so that you can easily modify them for your needs if your application or installation is different. Of course all measurements should be double checked for your application and may be converted to metric. The sheets can be pre-ripped in your lumber yard or home center for easier carrying in your car. There is also a plywood cut sheet with recommended cuts from each sheet of plywood to allow maximal efficiency of your plywood panels.
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Click: file-> download to get a copy of this doc. Some are 1/4" plywood and some are trim molding cuts. It also contains a list of wood parts that should be cut. The following Word document: contains top, front and side views of the TV Lift cabinet. Putty knife for spackling - Socket set, screwdriver, hammer Dowel points like this and a few 1/4" dowls - Nail gun and compressor (a finish nailer is fine with 2" and smaller finish nails) It is used to hold wood while the glue dries. Drill bits and Forstner drill bits - Countersink drill bit for drywall screws.
Sharp box cutter for edge tape trimming. Sanding block and loose 60 and 100 grit sand paper. Orbital sander with 60 and 100 grit sand paper. Clamps (assorted) - Tape measure and small steel ruler - Right angle square. Table saw - Jig saw (a band-saw may come in handy) - Compound Miter Saw (a Miter box would work also) - Drill press - Hand held corded drill. The TV lift cabinet construction will need the following tools: $38 1 - Piano Hinge () (you may want to use 2 hinges and cut them to fit the whole ~60" pop up door) $13 1 - IR repeater to hide components and IR receivers ( ) $45 4 - Drawer pulls (Home Depot) $6 2 - Door pull knobs (Home Depot) $3 4 - bolts, nuts and washers for the Firgelli lift.
$8 20 - feet of 1.25" x 3/4" Wood Panel molding (I got mine at Home depot) $30 30 - feet of 1" x 1/4" Wood Panel molding (I got mine at local lumber store) $45 5 - drawer glide pairs ( ) You might use lighter duty glides for the drawers. Associated costs are also shown:ġ - Firgelli Lift ( ) FA-TVL-170-24-36 (includes IR detect and remote) $760 (3/2016) 5 - Sheets of 3/4" Birch Plywood (HW or lumber store) $225 1 - Sheet of 1/4" Birch Plywood (HW or lumber store) $30 4 - Hinges, soft close ( ) $22 4 - Rolls of birch edge tape (HW/lumber store or ( )) $28 1 - bottle wood glue (HW or lumber store or ( )) Tightbond is great stuff. The TV lift cabinet will require the following materials.
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